This application is a sidekick to the beastmaker 1000 and 2000. It has been designed to assist the user into gradually getting stronger on a fingerboard. The app does this by way of prewritten workouts which are often general and aim to improve all trainable grips on the board. Some are specific (2000 series only at the moment) which aim to improve, sloper strength, pocket strength and crimp strength.
There is also a new custom workout program fully adjustable and includes the 1000,2000 and micros, so if you have your own hang regime and different timings then that is all programmable and can be saved.
Both the workouts and custom timer now record hang contraction time (time spent actually hanging off the board) We recommend most users get up to around 20:00 minutes on this clock whilst doing their workouts.
On the Workout screen after you've selected your work out it is now possible to adjust set and hang times. Users who are only finger boarding and are having a rest day prior to and after training may wish to do up to 3 sets and 7 hangs. Other users may prefer to go for 2 sets and 6 hangs, this is what we'd consider an average and more suited to people doing additional types of training.
Please note the grades for the workouts aren't actually meant to relate to anything other than themselves. E.G. 5c is easier than 6a but harder than 5b. If you find 5a hard on the 1000, use a weight removal technique such as putting one foot on a chair in front of the board or using a pulley with weights on. More advice on this and other things are available in the general advice section on the Workout Ratings page.
To record your hangs press the record button (red circle icon) whilst resting. The Workout Ratings function is much improved and should now be a really useful training aid which records gradual progress and improvement.
Fingerboard gains take time, remember to warm up thoroughly and move on to more difficult hangs at a slightly slower pace than you think you should to give pulleys time to catch up with muscles. For example 10% strength gains over a year is brilliant improvement. 5% is still effective training.
Best of luck with the training, happy hanging and we hope this helps with the motivation.
3.1 - Supplemental Update
Bug fixes and stability improvements:
- more gradual hang and rest time setting
- increased number of allowed sets and reps in Custom Workouts
- fixed issue when rest and hang time were swapped when starting a Custom Workout
3.0 - Update
Welcome to Beastmaker 3.0!
We listened to you and added a few features you asked for!
NEW! -> Custom Workouts!
- Now you can create your own customised workouts! Any grip, any board, and hang and rest times!
Other Improvements include:
- customise hang and rest time per workout
- delaying the start after skipping hangs
- rating workouts instead of each hangs
- running rest timer in the background so you can check that email!
We have also fixed a few other bugs. Enjoy!
Ratings and Reviews
The update is no longer for beginners
I sport climb 7a outside and I struggle doing the lowest level. The older version of this app I had two years ago was great but this version just excludes anyone who isn’t bouldering 7as outside... such a shame
Up to six family members will be able to use this app with Family Sharing enabled.