Breeding and nitrogen cycle fixes. · Bettas can now build bubble nests next to a sponge filter on its lowest setting. · Fish get hungry more slowly; two meals a day restore fullness. · When a salt or blackout treatment melts plants, the game tells you to stop the treatment instead of buying new plants. · The nitrogen cycle now completes in large tanks with few fish.

Your fish now breed more easily. NEW · "Breeding status" in My fish: for each species, why it isn't breeding or how many days until a pregnancy or spawning. · Shop fish reach breeding size in about 20 days at most. · Fish kept in the recommended group size can now breed. · New guide entry: "Why aren't my fish breeding?"

In this version: NEW · A Guide. The small (i) button on the right edge of the tank opens a reference screen that explains the game's own rules: water chemistry (nitrogen cycle, ammonia, pH and KH, oxygen, temperature), care (feeding, water changes, filters, quarantine, cycling), every species and decoration, and diseases with their treatments. Each disease also says WHY it appears in the game. The numbers in the guide are read straight from the game's calculations, so they are always up to date. · Move fish between tanks. Use "Move" in My fish to send fish to another of your tanks; "Select all fry" marks the newborns in one tap. Moving is free and can be undone. If something would go wrong in the target tank (cycle not finished, shoal too small, over capacity) it tells you first. · After a betta fight you can now move the male you take out to another of your tanks. A tank that already has a male betta is shown greyed out with the reason. · A new day chip on the main screen shows which day and hour the tank is on since it was set up. · The cycle badge now tells you the stage: "1/2 ammonia", "2/2 nitrite", "almost done". Tap it to see what comes next. Until the cycle is done, the badge sits at the front of the strip. · When health drops, you can see why. Each fish in My fish shows "Health falling: nitrate (change water)" or "Recovering", and the alert strip names causes that show up nowhere else, such as a missing shoal or overcrowding. · The pH chip is now coloured: green when it suits the species in the tank, yellow at the edge, red when it is doing harm. · Male guppies and mollies now and then chase the females; she flees and he gives up after a while. · The egg-collecting game now puts a sponge under your finger. Scrubbing back and forth cleans faster and leaves foam behind. · The best-value pack is marked in the coin shop. FIX · Discus kept at the right temperature (28–30 °C) in clean water still caught columnaris again and again. The "lower the temperature" treatment then chilled them below their ideal range, the chill brought ich, and the heat used to treat ich brought columnaris back. The loop is broken: discus no longer catch it within their own range, and the temperature treatment no longer drops below the species' ideal minimum. If you lower the thermostat further by hand, the diagnosis panel warns you. · The pH that Malawi and molly want could never be reached with tap water, so they were always stressed and lost health despite water changes. Half a unit outside a species' pH range is now harmless. · In tanks with more than one species, the temperature alert only looked at the first one; in an angelfish + neon tank, neons that were too warm showed up nowhere. Alerts and chips now check every species. · Neons could never breed under any conditions; the water hardness requirement can now be met in the game. · Fish whose sex is not visible yet now show "Shows once grown" and the size at which it will appear. · The ammonia chip tooltip showed Turkish text in the English interface.

In this version: NEW · Breeding has been rebuilt from the ground up. Only four species could breed before; now all sixteen except the nerite can, and each one does it the way it really does in an aquarium. · A male betta builds a nest of bubbles at the surface. For the nest to hold together he needs a plant covering the surface and still water; a strong current pulls it apart. · Angelfish and discus lay on a broad, upright leaf, and the pair guards the eggs together. Without anubias or bacopa in the tank they have no surface to spawn on. · Oscars and rams lay on a flat stone. A stone house, a stone head or an amphora will do. · A Malawi female takes her eggs into her mouth and carries them for three weeks, until the young can swim. A mouthbrooding female's throat swells, and the roster shows a "Mouthbrooding" badge. This method needs no plants at all: the fry's shelter is their mother's mouth. · Neon tetras, pygmy corys, kuhli loaches and goldfish scatter their eggs and never look back. Without moss or floating plants for the eggs to settle in, nothing comes of it. Neons also want very soft, acidic water and a dim tank; their eggs die in direct light. · Goldfish, orandas and telescopes follow the season as they do in the wild: they spawn only after a COOL water change. Pulling the bucket-temperature slider down a few degrees imitates spring. Do not overdo it; a large temperature drop raises the risk of disease. · Bristlenose plecos still spawn in a cave, with the male holding the entrance. · Every creature now has a sex. Angelfish, oscars, neons, corys, kuhlis and goldfish cannot be sexed as juveniles, so their badge shows "?" until the fish grows up, and the shop offers no choice for them. Buying a few youngsters and hoping for a pair is now part of the game — it is also the only way real angelfish breeders do it. The shop lets you pick a sex whenever the fish it sells is already big enough to show its badge, which is why discus are selectable. · Two new snails. The mystery snail has separate sexes and lays its clutch ABOVE the water: a female carrying eggs climbs up the glass to do it, and because the clutch is out of the water no fish can reach it. The ramshorn is a hermaphrodite; a single one can start a colony, and it will fill the tank if you overfeed. · The nerite snail still does not breed, and that is deliberate: its larvae need brackish water, so in fresh water the eggs never hatch. The species card now says so plainly. · Fry survival now depends on more than plants. A parent guarding the nest raises it markedly — sell the guarding fish and the brood is left exposed. Fish that eat fry lower it; oscars and angelfish are the worst, and guppies eat their own young. · When a species will not breed, the alert bar tells you why: no cave, no broad vertical leaf, no flat stone, nothing covering the surface, no moss, current too strong, water too hard, too bright, or no seasonal cue. The note is blue and informational — it means there is something you can do, not that something is broken. · The breeding badge in My fish now follows the method: Pregnant, Eggs, In nest, Mouthbrooding and Egg clutch. · Three new achievements: a mouthbrooding Malawi, fry from five different species, and a ramshorn colony twenty strong. FIX · In species whose sex is hidden, a batch bought in one go could come out ALL one sex: you would buy five angelfish, get five females, and only find out once they grew up and the shoal never bred. The shop now hands out a mixed batch, and if your shoal is already one sex the next fish you buy comes as the other. Shoals locked to one sex in existing saves are repaired by this update — fish whose sex you have already seen are left alone. · Shrimp were drawn with a clutch of eggs under the belly even when they were not carrying any. Fixed; pregnancy now also shows as a swollen belly and gravid spot on livebearers, and as a swollen throat on a mouthbrooding female.

Performance improvements.

NEW · Multiple aquariums. You are no longer limited to one tank: set up as many as 10. Each aquarium is a world of its own, with its own fish, plants, decor, water and equipment. What they share is your coins, and your album and achievements grow from all of your aquariums together. · Aquariums keep living while they are not open: fish grow, the water gets dirty, fry are born. Notifications cover all your aquariums and name the one they come from. When you come back, the "While you were away" summary gives each aquarium its own line. · The aquarium button at the bottom left opens My aquariums, where you can switch to another aquarium in one tap or set up a new one. Name your aquariums however you like; unnamed ones are called "Aquarium 1", "Aquarium 2" and so on. You can also delete an aquarium you no longer want. · You choose the size of a new aquarium, and the price follows the size. Setup ends with an order summary: glass, filter, heater and mature filter in one list, with the total. You pay only when you tap "Buy", all at once; cancel and nothing is charged. · Custom-size tanks. Next to the ready-made sizes, the shop's Tank tab now has "Custom size": pick any glass from 20–200 cm wide, 20–100 cm deep and 20–100 cm tall. A long, low tank works, and so does a narrow, tall vertical one. The price follows the glass size and thickness. · You can now move to a smaller tank too. If your fish will not fit, or the tank is too small for a species, you are warned before you pay. · Reset now clears only the open aquarium. Your other aquariums, coins, album and purchases stay as they are. With a single aquarium the fresh setup is free, as before. With more than one, the glass and equipment are paid; keep the current size and the glass costs nothing. · When you cannot afford something, a "Buy coins" button appears right there. The coin shop opens on top of the screen you are on, and closing it takes you back where you were. FIXES · Buying a bigger tank was sometimes blocked: moving from a 49-litre tank to the 105-litre one, for example, showed "This tank is smaller than your current one". Fixed; you can now move to any size you like. · The "While you were away" summary could flash up and vanish as the app opened. It now stays on screen until you close it.

Fullscreen mode is now available so you can enjoy watching your aquarium even more!

Improvements in disease treatment system.